The following is the content of my seasonal e-letter (winter 2005) that I publish to account planners (advertising strategists), brand managers, and consumer insight managers (the guys who conduct consumer research for products) with brands that have urban market aspirations.
STYLE CULTURE “The What not the Who”
After a year in London at BurkittDDB, perhaps a place even more style-conscious than New York (yup I said it), coming back to the US provided a major wake-up call as to just how strange the uptake of streetwear is in the fashion industry. Used to be that savvy marketers and designers could look deep into the subcultures or urban America for inspiration, punk, goth, surf/skate, hip-hop, etc. Some even look into the well of suburban cultures too. Now, mass marketers like Target are capable of pushing knock-off fashion so easily that it takes less than a year or so to capture the trend and re-market it, because they’re bringing the designers in-house. Take for example NYC’s Yellow Rat Bastard, perennial style trend-hunting ground in Soho. I swear I saw a trucker hat (own-brand) for $25 that looked like the one I just scooped at Target for $8.
Let’s face it, we might be deeply annoyed by the Von Dutch trucker hat phenomena because we could have sworn we were the first to get one, but is it really Von Dutch’s fault, could they really help it? Everyone is so eager to be cool, to buy cool that mass marketers won’t wait one minute longer than they have to bite, recycle it down to their own brand or generic brand (if you’re Target), buy up the music for their commercials, or hire the dj/skatepunk/garageband/artist to “do one for them too.” Hey, I’m not complaining, I mean this is my bread and butter, but its all just mimicry. The really tough thing to do is not to mimic but create flow, a way for underground urban influencers and trend makers creativity to flow up from the underground to the mainstream. Believe it or not, it’s good for society. Without that flow, we wouldn’t have MTV, the X Games, Hip-Hop, and the list goes on and on.
However, for the last five years, the style culture has become about who you know, in other words, tribes. Which means…in classic trend-countertrend, the next thing is probably going to be about what you know…and we’re already seeing some of that. But let’s start with the basic of style culture formulation. Subculture trendmakers, artists and designers create for themselves first, not for the mass market. They tap into their own needs. Mass marketers mimic and serve the needs of a suburban or secondary adopter market who have the need to fit in. But with the advent of so many powerful technologies at your fingertips, computers, the internet, home recording studios, and broader cheaper ways to get educated, the urban core is spitting out new concepts of culture at an unbelievable rate. So…
Start looking out for subculture style based around this concept: design for self, culture for self, style for self. Limited-edition you.
More on this in the MUCH PROPS section below but how can you as a brandmaker tap into this new upcoming trend? Give me a call and let’s chat about it.
WEIRD BUT COOL
At FAO Schwarz you can design a doll that looks like you or your kid…and get it in minutes. Does nappy hair come with that?
ENTERTAINMENT “Give it away”
A lot of people are hyping VOD (Video on Demand) and chances are you’ve sat around in your pjs one lazy Sunday surfing the free content and wondering why anyone would want to tune into obscure DIY shows on framing and last season’s movies? Can anyone say “content!” Yes, well impresario of hip-hop content Russell Simmons can. His media partnership, Simmons Lathan Media Group, and Clear Channel Entertainment Television, a division of Clear Channel Entertainment announced today an agreement to co-produce twelve music and fashion related events per year under the new banner, "Def On Demand Live!" Now this is interesting because VOD while an exciting technology, hasn’t exactly taken off due to a lack of more branded content.
Recently groups in Atlanta told me that VOD is like “second-class citizen” programming. However, Def On Demand should bring the kind of cred to dispel the idea that you’re watching something networks are willing to give away for free—a popular misconception of VOD programming. Will Clear Channel give it away at first then charge? We’ll see. Madison+ Vine (Adweek's def for the mash-up of Hollywood and Madison Ave ad agencies) should be all over challenging the misconception and seeking out entertainment properties to develop and sponsor better branded content.
MEDIA “the new Oprah”
Word is that Tyra Banks, host of the incredibly popular “America’s Next Top Model” on the UPN Network will be hosting a new talk-show for Fox. Now America will get to see the beauty and the brains—behind this ambitious growing celebrity franchise. Banks continues an exciting trend started by non-white supermodels Brooke Burke and Roshumba. In groups we did last month, all we heard from suburban and urban women was Tyra-this, Tyra-that when it came to women role-models on TV. Fox no doubt is banking (sorry) that this HUGE cross-over talent will pull some of UPN’s female urban market as it will debut in 19 key black and Hispanic DMAs across the nation.
TECHNOLOGY
The people behind Gizmodo and Gawker launched a couple of new blogs this month. One of them, Lifehacker, is sponsored by Sony (the story is it was the first multi-million dollar sponsorship of a blog). Finally, a marketer out there gets it. Get there first and go all the way.
If you hadn’t heard, the fastest thing on four legs must be Mozilla’s Firefox. The Firefox browser blocks pop-up advertising like Yao Ming. 2 million downloads in less than a year can’t be wrong. Does this mean people will do anything to stay away from advertising? No, people will do anything to stay away from SPAM. While you might think consumers are protected by law, they’re not. MX Logic research reported that in 2004, compliance to spam-reduction laws was at a staggeringly low of .5% and high of just 7%. Online advertising has grown by leaps and bounds, only to be shot-down before it reaches its destination. For every online ad vehicle created an enterprising company reaches the conclusion that most of us don’t want ads online. Sony’s sponsorship of Lifehacker is break-through stuff and again shows of the valuable concept of pairing the right kind of content with the right kind of sponsor. Come on guys, we do it all the time in print advertising, don’t we?
According to recent survey data by The Media Audit Group, 51% of Hispanics who accessed the Internet at least once during the previous 30 days have a household income of $50,000 or more. In the general adult population of the metropolitan markets surveyed, only 44.9% have household incomes of $50,000 or more. Of all Hispanics in the general adult population, just 31.8% have household incomes of $50,000 or more. Translation, Hispanics online are most cases more affluent than their general audience counterpart. Opportunities for the mass luxury brands to reach this market online abound.
UNTAPPED
Did you know that 50% of adult African Americans are between the ages of 18-34? (source, HMG Research).
If you were to review a recent national ranker of the TV programs watched by Total Hispanic A18-49, a group that includes English and Spanish speaking Hispanics, you would find that the top 53 programs are in Spanish. The first English-language program on this ranker, "American Idol", comes in at number 54. (source, HispanicWorks).
THIS ONES FOR FREE
Heard of “podcasting”? It’s when you put together a mix of your digital content (music, musings, interviews, recipes, you name it), and post it to the web for downloading by other iPod and mp3 users. Why aren’t big brands developing/sponsoring their own podcasts about their products? Hmm. A little birdy told me MTV2's relaunch (you know, the 2-headed dog you've seen on billboards around NYC?) is going to be downloading HEAVY.
MUCH PROPS “Infiniti in Black”
Ok, if you’ve seen the outdoor or print from “Infiniti in Black” is a year-long campaign for Nissan’s luxury brand, Infiniti. The work was done by “transcultural” agency TRUE, a division of TBWA, and is the second or third major campaign TRUE has done for them since the urban business left Carol H. Williams agency. Now, this work is tight, and for a perfect example of letting the African American urban influencer flow upstream, rather than downstream to mass market mimicry.
So why does this campaign work? Well, whether you believe in the notion of transculturalism or not, what Infiniti does is to recede just enough into the background to let consumer aspirations take over the job of creating interest. By featuring and giving voice to relatively unknown black artists (to the mass market), Infiniti is announcing that they have something unique to the urban market, but in common to all markets, which is the desire to be heard and seen. To be given a platform or voice is a powerful motivator in the urban market. Hip-hop and graf are all about that, self-made platforms for expression. In 2005, when hip-hop has been so heavily co-opted by the mass market, it makes perfect sense to go to the underground for something more intriguing. And you can expect the remaining artists yet to be revealed will be equally intriguing. This neatly follows Rule #1: (see yesterday's post).
Link of the moment: www.Flavorpill.net